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|“||Electroplate Armor self recharges after a cool down period if you do not take damage.||„|
|~ In-game description|
Electroplates (commonly abbreviated as Eplates, electros, or EPs) are hardware cubes that are used to protect the parts underneath or behind them.
Overview[edit | edit source]
In addition to regular armor, electroplates have a "shield" that can safely absorb some incoming damage without lasting effect. Any hit on any part of an electroplate is protected, including the back without the blue texture, by its energy shield. As the shielding is depleted, the blue colors of the texture get deeper and the flashing slows. Fully depleting the shield will "deactivate" the electroplate, and is indicated by an audible beeping alarm and a gray, non-flashing surface. After 10 consecutive seconds without damage, the shielding will recharge to full power, indicated by a "sizzling" sound and a return to full brightness. Any damage taken when the shield is off is absorbed by the Electroplate's armor health. In addition to this cooldown time, it also has a "recharge time", which is the time it takes after the cooldown is over to recharge (how long it spends sizzling). Both of these can be overclocked. The armor value also overclocks to 180%.
Each Mk of electroplating has its own unique shape and size as well as a "left" and "right" version, both of which must be purchased separately. Progressively higher tier electroplates have increasing large amounts of armor and shielding, as well as requiring more CPU and having a higher robot ranking.
Mk 2-9 electroplates all have a Mk10 version that have a mix of the two stats. The retired t1 electroplate (2x3 size) is also available at Mk10. Mk10 electroplates are classified like this: Mk10.(tier of electroplate shape) so a Mk10 version of the Mk2 electroplate would look like this: Mk10.2.
Electroplates have sufficient shielding to block several same-Mk SMG hits, but will be penetrated by same-Mk Rail Cannon hits or if multiple shots from a plasma volley hit the same Electroplate. They can also be destroyed instantly by destroying the cube they are mounted on. When hitting an electroplate, the crosshair will flash blue instead of red.
Electroplates, when healed, start out uncharged. They also start uncharged when you respawn.
Note: There is a bug where the Mk10 variants have incorrect hitboxes.
Electroplate vs Armor Cubes[edit | edit source]
- In the case of smaller Mk10 varieties, incredible armor density incomparable to anything else in the game
- Mk10 variants have a high cost per size
- Recharges after the shield value is reduced
- Lighter (electroplates recently have been made a lot heavier, so a good triforce design may be lighter than an electroplate).
- Highly resistant against Rail Cannons, Tesla Blades, and Plasma launchers.
- Cost less per CPU
- Higher protection for selected areas
- Limited size and shape
- useful for tiering up
- Overclocking will increase the health of the shield
- Not all taken off at once
- Higher armor per CPU
- Lower CPU load
- Higher heal rate
- Nearly unlimited designs and, as a result, damage distribution opportunities such as triforcing
- No overclocking
Statistics[edit | edit source]
The Electroplate's Cooldown Time takes 15 secs normal and 6 seconds when fully Overclocked. The recharge time is 2 seconds, and 0.8 seconds when fully overclocked. Cool down time is when the shield has been taken down, and recharge time is after that, when the shield is coming back up. During recharge time, the plate flashes.
Note: Both left and right electroplates have the same stats.
Strategies[edit | edit source]
How to Use[edit | edit source]
- Electroplates should cover those components that are vital to a robot's functionality, such as wheels, Aerofoils, Rudders, or weaponry. The chassis cube holding the electroplating must in turn be protected; otherwise the electroplating may be easily shot off and wasted. Care must be exercised to not allow electroplates to hinder the robot as well; the bulkiness and size of electroplates will impede movement, obstruct weapon turning arcs, block shots, or force unfavorable cube shifts that reduce the robot's battle effectiveness.
- As with all important components, when placing pairs of electroplates on both sides of your bot (above and below), it is recommended that the mounting connection points to not share the same cube, and that those with their mounting chassis cube close together be triforced away from each other, to prevent damage spill over from destroying multiple electroplates at once.
- In higher tier matches, low tier electroplates do not survive long, but they can still channel damage away from vital bot components. The t10 variants work fine, but are CPU expensive for their crazily large size.
- Battling with no electroplates can be a viable strategy as this frees up CPU.
- Blocks in all tiers have more armor per CPU and per area occupied than Electroplates, so Electroplates should mainly be used to reduce weight or to cover specific weak points. They also heal at a substantially lower rate, taking almost 3 times as long per unit of health.
- Do also note that since you get more armor/CPU with regular cubes than shield/CPU with electroplates, unless the electroplates have sufficient time to recharge a few times over. It is often more viable to just armor up your weak spots with cubes. However, electroplates are advisable on flying/hovering bots because they are lighter than the equivalent, in CPU, of same-tier cubes. This effect is ascribed to the creation of a more easily balanced bot and the potentially freed CPU in the form of removed movement cubes not required on a lighter bot.
- Barrier Protection and Resistivity-based weapons apply their damage to the shield value of electroplate before their armor value. Regenerator megabots popularized the use of MkX-1 Electroplates as gun-mounts that give its weapons far more longevity before they were disconnected.
How to Counter[edit | edit source]
SMG robots will have the hardest time shooting off electroplates, especially in later tiers and in close-up firefights. Electroplates block all penetrating shots, which makes strategically shooting off cubes behind the electroplates arduous. Plasma launchers have an advantage where the blast radius may reach behind electroplates, but such methods become more difficult to achieve in the later tiers where more electroplate shapes are available. However, multiple plasma hits to the same Electroplate will still destroy it. Some situations may not be resolved with anything short of brute force, in which case traveling with battle-ready teammates would be best.
Tips By Shape[edit | edit source]
- Original - Can be used for Filling a tiny gaps,can be abused if done correctly.
- A - Excellent for filling small, annoying gaps.
- B - Being curved is nice, great for covering wheels and hoverblades. They can be placed with the tips interleaving that can form a cage like shape.
- C- These plates actually fit nicely, one after another, creating very strong siding if you have sufficient cpu.
- D - These plates tessellate very nicely to create conic shrouds for vital parts.
- E - The 45 degree angle on these plates makes them equally useful for side and top armor, they also align with Mk 7 electroplate flawlessly.
- F- These plates are designed so that the left and right variants create a solid boat shape. They work very well alongside Mk 6 electroplates.
- G - These plates are large and flat, useful for exposed areas, but you may find them difficult to work into smaller bots.
- H - The triangle shape of these makes them useful for armoring awkward locations as well as making a "plow" on the front of a bot.
- I - Absolutely monstrous jump in shield value. A single one of these can guard the entire flank of a smaller bot due to its size and shape.
- J+K - Giant shields that are large enough to guard the entire flank of a normal bot. The plate type works well on both megabots and Mk10 bots. (Please note that a MkX-1 shield has enough robot ranking by itself to be in Mk10 making it impossible to use MkX-1 shields in any Tiers but T10 or TX are suitable to use them.)
Artwork[edit | edit source]
The front of the electroplate is textured a light neon blue with a tessellation of darker blue honeycomb pattern on it. The back is textured with a pattern of complex circuits.
History[edit | edit source]
- When electroplates were first introduced, they were available at all tiers. Later, Tier 1 and Tier 2 electroplates were removed from the game. In the Dawn of the Megabots update, Tier 2 electroplates were reintroduced. Tier 1 electroplates were a flat 3x2 panel and are now exclusively available in T10 form.
|Eletroplate Shield Down|
|Deactivated Shield Warning|
- After the Full Spectrum Combat update,the T10 Electroplates had changed to the Electroshield instead of electroplate.
In Epic Loot update,Electroplates lost their name(changed to Electroshield),and T1 Electroplate was added back to game